Having learned my lesson from the previous day’s traffic paralysis, I decided to skip both famous Tōdai-ji and Kasuga Taisha on the second day of my Nara trip. Instead, I spent the day strolling around Nara downtown. After several days of walking my legs to the bone, the fatigue built up in my calves was intense, so I figured I’d just take it easy and relax.
The charming appearance of the former Japanese National Railways Nara Station building, standing in the plaza in front of current JR Nara Station.
Around us, a flea market catering to foreign tourists is in full swing. And inside the old station building…
Just like the exterior, it had been beautifully renovated and now served as a tourist information center and coffee shop.
Probably Nara’s liveliest downtown area, we walked from Sanjo Street to the Mochiido Center area. A pleasant mix of traditional Japanese confectionery and pickle shops, tourist-oriented eateries, and shops used by locals kept things interesting.
A rare sight: a Lawson convenience store in a machiya townhouse.
It’s delightful that restaurants here aren’t dominated by national fast-food chains, but instead feature many “indie” spots brimming with local character. This is a common trait not just in Nara, but across Kansai cities like Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe. I even enjoyed a “Local coffee shop lunch,” something rare in Tokyo these days.
What was amazing was this stationery shop on the edge of Mochii-dono Center Street.
This shop isn’t a movie set, nor is it a place “aiming” for a retro vibe. It’s a genuine, fully operational stationery store selling pens and notebooks. I just bought a gift envelope there. The elderly woman who seemed to be the owner provided very polite and friendly service, which really impressed me.
The alleyway leading to the shopping street also has its own charm.
Beyond Center Street lies ”Nara-Machi”.
Since it’s featured quite a bit in tourist guides and you can see plenty of photos of its lovely streets and shops, I’ll share a few different kinds of photos here.
The eaves of a house that feels like it’s either mid-renovation or half-abandoned. The bare light bulb is irresistible.
Above all, the presence of the akebi vine.
This decorative window was apparently donated by the Nepal Pavilion during the older Expo. It’s used in a corner of Gangoji Temple’s building. I thought it was iron, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be an exquisitely carved wooden window. It fits perfectly.
At the end of this street lies the destination of today’s leisurely stroll: Sarusawa Pond.
This pond is famous for reflecting Kofuku-ji Temple’s five-story pagoda on its surface. Unfortunately, it’s been covered for major repairs these past few years, so its magnificent appearance will have to wait a while longer.
And so, this time was the chapter on walking through Nara city.
